Lava Beds National Monument

If you are travelling in or around California then the Lava Beds National Monument is a definite must-see.

This 47,000-acre national park meets only 130,000 visitors per year in comparison to Yosemite which sees nearly 4 million but this well kept secret is a major hot spot for adventure loving families. Visitors are able to see some amazing geology and very striking scenery whilst they hike up a cinder cone, head underground through thrilling yet eerie lava tube caves which were naturally created by flowing cooling magma or be in awe of the spectacular natural lava bridges. As if that’s not enough, you can also follow miles of hiking trails, do some wildlife spotting and view some Native American historic rock engravings (petroglyphs).

Within the park is a two-mile long ‘Cave Loop Road’ which has nearly 20 well marked caverns along it with varying difficulty levels. Many of these are easy for families, even those with young children, to navigate as they have high ceilings and smooth floors but the more challenging have rockier floors and smaller spaces which require bending and crawling to get through. Amazingly, there have been over 700 lava-carved caves discovered within the park and 24 of these have been adapted with handrails and ladders so that visitors can maximise and enjoy the experience.

The first thing that families should do is to go to the museum which is in the visitor’s centre. Here, you will gain basic coverage into the area’s volcanic activity, safety tips for caving and cave restrictions or closures. You can also borrow kneepads and flashlights and buy bump hats (or you can take your own bicycle helmets).

It is recommended that each member of the party should have a flashlight, closed-toe footwear and a jacket. Also, you should take warm clothing with you as the caves are quite chilly due to cold trapped air, with an average temperature of 55 degrees, even in the summer.

Interesting spots in Lava Beds National Monument

Our three favourite caves which are a 'must-visit' for every visitor are:

Mushpot Cave

This inviting cave is found at the visitors' centre and is a great place for families to start as the walkways are well lit and it is well signposted. It is very interesting too because you can learn how the natural tunnels were actually formed as the lava receded and cooled down.
Golden Dome

When you go down the ladder into this special cave, watch out for the ‘headache rock’. This cave has an amazing sparkly gold ceiling which is formed by the light reflecting off the numerous water droplets that form beads around harmless bacteria present in the cave.
Valentine Cave

Named this because it was discovered on Valentine’s Day in 1933, this large cave is approximately 3 miles away from Cave Loop. This cavern was created by a different lava source than the rest of the Cave Loop caverns as it is about 20,000 years younger than the Park’s other tubes. As it is not as old as the others, it is in pristine condition with its smooth floors and walls and without the modifications of handrails and ladders.
Skull Cave

This cave has cold air trapped inside so the floor is like ice and visitors will need a coat to make the narrowing freezer-like descent. It was named this as there were bones discovered inside and it was formed by two lava tubes cooling and then the upper tube collapsed onto the lower tube.

The unique ambience within the caves also attracts some fascinating wildlife including:

Bats

There are 14 species of bats residing at Lava Beds including the Townsend Big-Eared Bat which eat moths; you can tell they are around if there are moth wings on the cave floor.
Tiny snakes

Rubber Boas are little snakes that live in caves are about the size of an overgrown worm. They squeeze prey rather than biting as they are in the constrictor family.
Pack Rat

Also known as a wood rat, you can tell there’s one around if you can see any conspicuous piles of branches and twigs as they like to make their nests in caves.

Not only is the park spectacular underground and inside the caves, there are some pretty great spots above ground too:

Schonchin Butte Trail

This mile-long path is rocky and goes up a cinder cone but the panoramic views at the top of the surrounding desert, Mount Shasta and Medicine Lake Volcano are worth the climb. There is a resident ranger who can answer any questions and during the Summer, the ranger can let you know about the fire management program and children can also earn a Junior Fire Lookout Award.
Petroglyph Point

This historic area is situated at the north of the park and it has 5000 Native American carvings which give you an insight into the Modoc history as it was traditionally the territory of these inhabitants. Whilst browsing the cliff wall carved panels, you can also observe red-tailed hawks, owls and prairie falcons which reside locally.
Captain Jack’s Stronghold

This site is named after a young Modoc leader called Kientpoos (who was known to settlers as Captain Jack) who was responsible for a famous standoff at this location in the 19th century. During 1872-1873, about sixty Modoc warriors used the lava caves and trenches to hold 600 US Army soldiers for almost 6 months. The sites walking trails are open throughout the whole year and guided tours are given in the summer. The inner loop is half mile long or you can opt to take the more gruelling 1 ½ mile trail.

When to Go

The Lava Bed Park is open throughout the year and there is always something special to see regardless of which season you decide to visit in; if you go in the fall, you may get to see some migratory birds whereas in the winter, you may come across large herds of deer. In summer, the temperature in the daytime is around 90 degrees whereas in the winter they range from 20 to 40 degrees. Visitors should always take warmer clothing with them though as the high desert park can get chilly.

Where to Stay

If you are hoping to stay in the park, the Indian Well Campground is open throughout the year and has 43 tent and RV sites which cost $10 and are on a first come, first served basis. There are no hook-ups or showers and you may be able to participate in campfire programs in the summer. For more information, go to nps.gov/labe.

Outside the park, there are more options to like Medicine Lake Campground. This site is about 17 miles away from the park and is also on a first come first served basis although sites cost $7 here. It has tent and RV camping near some water but it is only open weather permitted, between July and October. There are vault toilets and no showers. Fr more information, call 530-667-2246.